Pruning a Columnar Apple Tree: Diagram and Rules for Tree Shaping for Beginners

Columnar apple trees are an ideal solution for small plots. They take up little space, have virtually no side shoots and a large crown, and their yields can sometimes exceed those of traditional fruit trees. However, even these trees require regular pruning, both for shaping and maintenance.

Correct formation of a columnar apple tree: why is it necessary?

There's a common misconception among gardeners that columnar apple trees don't need pruning because they lack side shoots. However, if that were the case, pruning wouldn't even be an issue. A proper columnar apple tree has a straight, upright trunk with shortened shoots, also called runners. They are positioned at an acute angle to the main trunk. Forming the runners is necessary to prevent the tree from becoming a typical dwarf apple tree with a standard crown.

Pruning a columnar apple tree is necessary not only to maintain its aesthetic appearance, but also to prevent branches from becoming tangled, increase fruit yield, rejuvenate the tree, and strengthen young branches.

General scheme for pruning a columnar apple tree

First, it's important to understand the general structure of a columnar apple tree. The central shoot, also known as the trunk, is not subject to pruning or shortening, as it plays a pivotal role for the entire tree. From this central shoot, lateral shoots of the first and second order extend. The first-order shoots are primarily horizontal, while the second-order shoots extend vertically upward and downward.

The pruning scheme for a columnar apple tree is as follows:

1. In the first year of planting, all shoots are pruned back to two buds. This strengthens the branches and stimulates their further growth and flowering.
2. In the second year, first-order shoots are pruned by 30–35 cm. Second-order vertical shoots are left untouched, leaving them for further fruiting.
3. In the third and subsequent years of life, the second year pruning is repeated, and shoots that bore fruit in the previous year are also subject to removal.

A mature tree in its 5th or 6th year doesn't require further extensive pruning. It will only require maintaining the crown, preventing branches from intertwining, and regular sanitary pruning, removing diseased, old, and spent shoots.

Pruning times

The pruning timing for these apple trees is determined by the variety, the regional climate, and the current year's climate. Apple tree crown shaping can be done in four stages—one stage for each season.

Pruning a columnar apple tree in winter

Winter pruning is considered the most important part of caring for a columnar apple tree. It's best done in late February, if possible. At this time, all the branches and shoots from the previous year are clearly visible. Due to the apple tree's shape, the lower branches receive insufficient light in the spring and summer.

In winter, fruiting zones are formed by removing the lower branches, leaving the upper tiers for apples. At the same time, old, broken branches and weak shoots are removed, as these weaken the tree and reduce subsequent flowering.

Spring pruning scheme

Spring pruning is carried out before the sap begins to flow during the period of active snowmelt. After winter and spring pruning, columnar apple trees grow faster, and the number of flowers and fruit sets increases.

It's recommended to leave 4-5 buds on each shoot, which will produce the same number of new shoots. This type of pruning is called pinching, and its main purpose is to encourage the emergence of fruiting shoots.

Also in the spring, branches that have frozen over the winter are removed, which contributes to the overall health of the tree and increases its resistance to disease and pest attacks.

In late spring and early summer, growing lateral shoots are removed to regulate the number of branches in the crown. This is necessary to ensure that nutrients are used for fruit formation rather than for the growth of empty, non-flowering shoots.

Summer pruning scheme

During the summer, only new, mature but unneeded green shoots that have not yet formed flowers or ovaries are pruned. These shoots most often grow on the central trunk. These shoots are simply plucked out, as their trunks are very thin and don't require pruning.

Pruning columnar apple trees in autumn

Autumn pruning is performed to shape the tree's few strongest shoots. At this time, dry, crossed branches, broken shoots, and shoots showing signs of infection or pest damage are removed. Removing this dead wood will help the tree survive the winter more easily. In the fall, new growth that appeared in the summer after the summer side shoots were removed is also removed.

There are several simple rules for sanitary pruning:

1. All shoots that are subject to pruning are removed almost to the base, leaving 0.5 cm from the trunk.
2. The cut areas are covered with garden pitch or oil paint.
3. Pruning is carried out using disinfected instruments.

Features of pruning

Columnar apple trees should be trained from the first year of planting and continued throughout the season. The older the tree gets, the less frequently it needs this treatment. In young trees, it's important to preserve the apical or terminal bud, which is responsible for the growth of the central trunk.

Damage from frost or pests will stifle the growth of the apple tree's core by young shoots and subsequent buds. The apical bud can only be removed from mature trees that reach a height of 2.5–3.5 m.

If the apical bud does freeze, it's necessary to identify the branch that will become the trunk's continuation. To do this, remove the portion of the main trunk containing the dead bud right up to the new shoot. The remaining branches, level with the new central shoot, are shortened to two buds.