Champion apple tree: characteristics of the variety and care

Description of the Champion apple variety

Every gardener dreams of replacing old varieties in their garden with new ones that boast enviable consumer qualities. Champion is one such variety. It's easy to care for, produces consistently abundant harvests without resting, and its apples are easy to transport even over long distances and last until the next harvest. Experts recommend Champion not only for small garden plots but also for commercial intensive orchards.

Apples: What the Fruit Looks Like

The fruits of this variety are quite large, without a large variation in size, and can easily grow up to 170-220 grams under suitable conditions. They are round and slightly flattened.

Their skin is dense but thin, greenish-yellow when fully ripe. It's almost completely covered with a reddish-orange blush, sometimes blurred or streaked, especially on the side facing the sun. The chemical composition is characterized by the following indicators:

• P-active substances – 287 milligrams.
• Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) – 8.2 milligrams.
• Total sugars (fructose) – 13-14%.
• Pectins (fiber) – 12.5%.
• Titratable acids – 0.69%.

The fruit's flesh isn't very firm when ripe. It's somewhat loose, yet still quite juicy. Its color leans toward cream or slightly yellowish. The Champion's flavor is considered dessert-like, balanced, and harmonious, with a strong, distinct aroma. According to tasting reviews, the fruit scores 4.8 out of 5 for appearance and 4.4 for flavor.

Champion apple tree: characteristics

Crown and root system

The tree is considered to be of medium or below average height. Without pruning, it can easily produce shoots up to 5 meters high, but in cultivated gardens, thrifty owners usually do not allow it to grow so much. Therefore, in most cases the tree reaches 2.5-3.5 meters maximum. Crown The variety has a medium-density habit, not prone to excessive thickening, and has a pyramidal or even oval shape when young. Over the years, it becomes broadly pyramidal, spreading, and sometimes weeping, with long branches drooping downward.

The leaves are a rich, dark green, smooth and leathery above, with a noticeable pubescence beneath. The petioles are rounded, tapering toward the edges, and the tips can even be twisted into a spiral. The leaf margins are serrated and jagged. The root system is well-branched, but primarily superficial, significantly reducing the variety's frost resistance.

Productivity and pollination

Among winter apple trees, the Champion variety is considered highly productive.

In a good year, it can yield at least 70-110 kilograms of aromatic fruits, which are distinguished by an enviable uniformity in size.

A five- or seven-year-old tree can easily yield up to 30 kilograms of fruit. Fruiting cycles can occur in older trees, but this is rare.

This variety is relatively self-sterile, so if it's the only one in the garden, it won't produce a good harvest. While it usually blooms profusely, ovaries only form in 20-30% of cases. A nearby apiary will further increase the yield. Experienced gardeners even arrange to bring their hives into their gardens during the flowering period to boost pollination.

Winter hardiness and disease resistance

Champion's frost resistance is average, even below average. It struggles with temperatures below 15-18°C. If such weather persists for a long time, and is accompanied by wind, the apple trees may die. Therefore, they require protection even in fairly moderate growing conditions. Covering not only the root zone and the lower part of the trunk is necessary, but also the skeletal and all other branches.

The variety has the greatest resistance to powdery mildew, but scab It can easily infect trees. Therefore, it's essential to regularly carry out all necessary preventative measures, including spraying with chemicals and clearing the area around the trunk of fallen leaves or rotting fruit. This variety is highly susceptible to bitter pit.

Subspecies and rootstocks

Features of growing Champion

Landing

Key Features

• For planting Champion, choose well-lit and ventilated areas. However, special attention should be paid to avoiding drafts, which the trees do not tolerate.
• Apple trees prefer dry sites with low groundwater levels. Planting them near bodies of water is also not advisable. Their rhizomes can rot, resulting in the death of the tree.
• The holes for each variety are dug small, just 50-60 centimeters deep and the same in diameter (for vigorous rootstocks, 80 centimeters deep and 1 meter in diameter). These can be prepared in advance, for example, in the fall or at least 2-4 weeks beforehand. To do this, mix some of the excavated soil with fertilizer and, after returning it to its original location, add 20-30 liters of water.
• Before planting, visually assess the root system; if necessary, soak it in water for 6-7 hours, and cut off any damaged or dried roots with garden pruning shears.
• Immediately dig stakes into the hole on the north side, to which the seedlings will be tied. Do not remove them during the first or second year.
• The root collar must be left at least 5 centimeters above the surface, otherwise the tree may root higher, which will lead to a complete loss of the rootstock's qualities.
• Sprinkle the root system, constantly shaking it slightly so that there are no air bubbles near the rhizome; the apple tree does not like this.
• A border of soil is made around the root zone, into which 30-40 liters of water are poured.

Landing dates

Champion isn't particularly frost-resistant, so it's recommended to plant it in the spring. Even if you purchased seedlings in the fall, you can plant them in a convenient location, protecting them from frost. However, you can try planting them in late September after the leaves have fallen, but there are still at least four weeks left before frost. In the spring, it's best to postpone planting until late April.

Protection from frost and rodents

Up to three years of age, trees must be wrapped and protected from frost if winter temperatures drop below -16-20°C for more than two weeks. Not only the roots, but also the trunks and branches require protection. Until the tree reaches three years of age, it is recommended to completely wrap it in plastic film or burlap, surrounding it with straw bales and spruce branches.

To prevent insects from overwintering on apple trees, the trunks should be whitewashed with lime or treated with special insecticides in the fall. To repel hungry rodents, treat the trunks with lard or grease.

Tree care

Loosening the soil, watering: proper agricultural technology

It's not necessary to loosen the soil under the Champion, but you can dig around the trunk area once a year. However, extreme caution is a good idea, as you don't want to damage the roots located close to the surface. Removing weeds, root suckers, and shoots from shrubs or other trees is a common gardening practice for any variety, and it's no bad idea for this one either.

Overwatering can kill an apple tree, as frequent standing water will cause the root system to rot. Therefore, watering apple trees of this variety should only be done in extreme cases, and even then only sparingly, perhaps two or three times during the growing season.

Pruning: simple crown shaping

During the first three years, pruning must be done carefully, as the crown must be properly shaped for easy harvesting. To achieve this, skeletal lateral branches are formed in tiers, preferably spaced far apart. The main stem is shortened by a third starting in the first year, and the tiers of branches should be 5-10 centimeters shorter. The columnar Champion will require the least amount of work; it will only require shortening the trunk and removing small branches on the sides if they interfere.

As the tree matures and then ages, regular sanitary and rejuvenating pruning will be necessary. This involves removing all damaged, dead, or diseased branches. From 10 to 15 years of age, 2-3 mature branches should be pruned to allow new growth to develop, which will significantly rejuvenate the tree.

Ripening and fruiting of the Champion apple tree

The beginning of fruiting

Gardeners especially like the Champion variety because you can sample a few apples from the tree as early as the second or third year, and fruiting begins in the fourth or fifth. While you're unlikely to harvest more than 5-15 kilograms during this period, it's a very good start.

Flowering time

Like all winter apple trees, the Champion begins blooming around mid-May. Depending on the climate, this may extend until the end of the month. The buds open briefly, and within 10 days, none remain. The variety produces medium-sized, saucer-shaped flowers, white and fragrant, with large stamens.

Fruiting and growth

By the sixth or seventh year, the variety begins to bear fruit abundantly. It can now produce full harvests, which are easy to transport and store under suitable conditions (a well-ventilated cellar). The tree grows quite significantly, up to 15-25 centimeters per year, for the same amount of height gain (5-7 years). After this, it begins to spread outward, becoming more spreading.

The fruit reaches full maturity in mid-September, but sometimes it can take until the end of the month. Almost all the apples ripen at the same time. Extreme caution is required and it's best to harvest them within the first ten days, as they can fall to the ground within two days of reaching technical maturity. Then, the entire harvest should be processed immediately (within 3-5 days) into jams, preserves, or compotes. If harvested promptly, the fruit can easily be stored for 5-6 months.

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